Showing posts with label Tech Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tech Tips. Show all posts

7 August 2019

Ibanez Buyers Guide for Dummies VIII


I had put a reminder on my phone about doing an update of Ibanez tremolo system. It rang in July but I was too busy to post this. God willing this report will be publish at least once a year. For those who missed past report or do not know what this entry is about, it’s pertaining to Ibanez's double locking bridges. Nothing to do with the guitar body, tone or design.
This caveat applies to Ibanez's standard models only. We'll go straight at each catalogue to see which part of the world gets the good (Edge Zero II) the bad (Edge III) and the ugly Ali (Std DL) .
Now there's four version or catalogue PDF representing four un proportion market on the globe. At least that's how Hoshino sees it.

Japanese market.

















All is good here! Congrats to your new domestic buyers. Arigato guzai mas tak.

North American market.


























Like them souped up pickuptronics, big model numbers and fancy pants colours from Hoshino folks will help it stay in tune. I certainly hope so or may as well better off eatin crawfish pie and fillet gumbo for tonight, I'm-a gonna git ma condolences and good luck to our gittar buddies on the bayou.

European market.



























My congrats to our new Ibanez brethren over there. Thomann and Andertons, These two companies knows about guitar hardwares. Thumbs up.

Asia(excluding Japan), Middle east, Africa, Central and South America and Australia market.












Thank you Hoshino. Great respect. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up.

A few more permanent occupiers spotting the turd bridges in all catalogues. All-time best sellers I believe?









Do not get triggered by anything you read here. Remember, this is the Internet.

Goodbye joe,I gotta go.
Yustech


11 March 2019

Tool Talk - Wrenches.

This entry was meant for another bass repaired. Given the circumstances the writer wish not to bore with similar low notes. Let's talk tool, mine in particular. A poor man show off, a little story and some rants.I love them, I don't know why. Well who doesn't, especially the affordable ones and how essential it is for work.
Sex drivers, socket drivers whatever it is, it's all good stuff to me but never think for a minute that you will complete all of it like a PC game. No sir for you will do it again and again. It's all about stages. For example at stage one, it's buying only the size need for work. Stage II is when you need to add few more just in case. Stage III is when for no reason, you want to complete the Metric and Imperial rainbow from a particular make and model. Stage IV is when you want several rainbows on the shelf while hunting down for used, vintage or discontinued tools, another name for stage IV is also known as a collector/hoarder. Stage IV carriers can impede us bargain hunter from owning used tools that were once expensive when new.
I recently upgraded to stage II. The upgrade was inevitable as it really bothers me when I don't have the appropriate size. By the way I know about those 99 in 1 box interchangeable tool bit type. Yes, they are convenient but to me it is an inconvenient in disguise. I do not envy swapping drive bit because the bit itself isn't that much bigger than a guitar pick, I sure loose them easily. I prefer something that permanent off the factory. It must have its own handle with integrity and accountability. At this age I prefer looking at a colour or embossed/stamped number on the tools than looking at 99 plural bits that look alike with each other. I feel in the long run, I'm well reimburse by such singular tool design. Furthermore I want to be seen by my customer's to be professionally presented and not a cheap skate. lol
My recent pasar road adventure fruited those yellow handles socket wrench before you. I do feel it would've been nicer if it was all from the same make but the different make is actually a convenient in disguise. At least I know what I'm grabbing at first sight. As far as guitars and amp work concern, I believe the collection is complete. From now on, come whatever musical gear you are through my door for I am battle ready to take it apart or to tight it up. As long as it's Metric of course. Hehe.
However I've yet to complete my Imperial socket wrench. These aren't commonly use in this part of the world. It only gets use when I dismantle something from USA, Liberia and Myanmar (imperial standard countries). The only local place I know that sells imperial size socket wrench is Ace Hardware. By the way thank you for opening a few here. I have to confess I had made an unavoidable mistake buying socket wrench one at a time before I realised that the one or two I missed are inside a set on Ace Hardware shelf. Those can’t be sold as loose and its sure is damn expensive to be doing it again now. Well what could I do, at the time, when you need it then you need it.
However I like to point out that some Metric and Imperial can crossover to the oppose territory. For example 7/16 can work on 11mm nuts. 14mm can work 9/16 nuts. I don't condone this but it works.
What about sex drivers? Why not. Those are pretty too. Did you know old Kahler Tremolo uses odd size socket fasteners? Good thing one time I was prepared. I hope the Metric vs Imperial war will end soon. Technology would move at a congruent tangent. No more conversion chart, app and less use of the caliper. Wouldn't it be better?Look below to understand what I mean.

In the rest of the world.

A Kilometer is 1000meters, 1 meter is 100cm, 1cm is 100mm, 1mm is 1000micrometers, 1 micron is 1 atom?. Make sense doesn't it.

Meanwhile in USA, Liberia and Myanmar.

A mile is 8 furlongs, 1 furlong is 220 yards, 1 yard is 3 feet, 1 foot is 12 inch, 1 inch equals to half a thumb? Imagine the Olympics in imperial. Main event sprint final in 109.36 yards and etc.

You must think I'm anti imperial. NO, here’s my string height gauge. Thanks for reading and have a nice day.


Thank you 
yustech


5 March 2019

OFF means ON and NO means YES? The tone knob.

Here's something to ponder upon. Concerning the tone knob on the electric guitar. Its common knowledge when we want the tone IN, we roll up (clockwise) the tone knob right? Wrong and NO, we actually turned the tone OFF. To turn ON the tone, we need to roll down (counter clockwise) the knob so that the filter capacitor engages with the unwanted highs accordingly. Did anyone notice this? WTF right?

I remember questioning this myself many years ago but because I didn't write it down, I forgot about it for a solid 15 years or so.

What's 15 years compared to 60 years of deception misguidance. Hehe. I don't think anyone would change it now since we are already use to how it is hence things should remain astray for the next 60 years. In the meantime, I'm writing this just so I remember I’ve covered this topic. I will also try to remember to turn my tone up to 9.5 instead of 10. I want to give my tone cap a little work instead of none. Hehe.
This now leads to few more uncomfortable questions. Say I play a Les Paul will all knobs roll up, wouldn't that make those expensive bumblebee PIO caps inside redundant to the circuit? Did I misguide my clients too? Was it just a placebo effect? Should we now rewire them right or at least re stamp the tone knobs marker?  I have no answer to whether the filter cap has any effect when the tone is OFF (that's ON to you) or turning it ON (that’s OFF to me now) would equate to not having tone pot at all. I need to do some practical and presentable test for that. 
By the way, reverse numbered speed knobs are available online. What about for Strat? After 60 years, Sorry to say. None exist. Well I don't know. Maybe not yet, China? Wan Hung Low? Anyone?

Misguided tech
yustech




21 January 2019

My up is your down.A Tutor Dilemma.Part II


Just an advice to newbie jumping into the hobby. Regardless how you position the instrument. Just make sure to play it right! The bass string on top, treble on the bottom! KAPISH!?

Thank you
yustech




16 January 2019

Ibanez Buyers Guide for Dummies VII


Hello again and welcome to what is to me a belated Ibanez buyers guide for dummies issue seven. I'm sure most veteran of this post knows what this post is all about. Let's go straight to it shall we, but first
Ibanez is doing things differently last year by pushing their good and bad bridge into selected continents/countries/region. I've heard unofficial rumours that there's patent dispute claim made in the United States to the Edge Zero II. I don't know whether that's true or otherwise but I couldn't care less, I'm not interested in wind-talk khabar angin because those kind of street talk would always snowball into stinking fishball and I don’t eat ikan patin.

 I choose a different tangent by asking these instead "Is Hoshino doing a strategic disposal of the STD DL(now nameless)?" God knows how many thousands of units they've bought from Ali and Co or where ever it's from I don't give a shit. “Was this a regional decision or a directive from Hoshino?"

Having said, I urge you reader's to peruse the guitar spec in your domestic Ibanez site, comparing it (the specs) with the next region site. I know I should have check their site last year but I was busy and had good assumption that Ibanez wouldn’t do any back pedalling (like before). To my defense, it was just brought to my attention by my client recently when he surf to buy a guitar. I hope I’m not late to steer some of you away from the bad apples. Those apples left over may be brought forth to this year too. Honestly speaking I’m slightly pissed by this and will put an alarm setting in my phone calendar to check Ibanez websites and catalog pdf in the second quarter of this year. To all potential Ibanez RG Standard buyers, domestic or international, you can be fucking sure I won’t forget this time. Insyallah. Hehe.

Speaking about sites. I'll be comparing from/between three Ibanez regional official 2018 catalog to show you which bridge landed on your soil. Drum roll......

 Ibanez 2018 Asia Catalog

 All the standard models with locking trem spots the good Edge Zero II with ZPS3fe. No hanky panky here in fact we're given more finishes to choose from. Thank you Ibanez for not dumping your bridge waste here. We already have the rare earth hazard in Pahang to worry about. Some of the signature models still spots the Edge III and STD DL. Damn son! When will those bridge die or sent elsewhere too!? Maybe I should write to my MP so our garment would ban Edge III and STD DL Bridge from entering our port. Another item in the smugglers list? That could raise the Edge III to becoming collectable and would proof profiting to sellers too. Yeah perhaps I'll write that letter just before PRU15 in 2023.

Ibanez 2018 European Catalog


My dear respected Germany consumers including all nation of the EEC, although you all didn't get all the finishes (maybe you will if Thomann squeezes Hoshino balls harder this year), rest assured all trem equiped RG Standard came with Edge Zero II (whether you know it or not). Thumbs up. Hope it remain this way until 2023. To travelling Malaysian over there, your purchase is safe too unless you prefer more choices. For that come buy it at home.

Ibanez 2017 USA Catalog (2018 Catalog not found. 2019 sites shows similar results to 2017 catalog)
 Though they got the fullest range and with some slightly higher range (400 series), it is still in my opinion wortless with that bridge on. That said, It is with regret to announce that our American players got the bad ones. All RG Standard shown above spots the Aliexpress twin STD DL system. You should either wait for spec changes this year (if there’s any) or hunt/ask for earlier than 2016 with the Edge Zero II badge. If you insist on wanting a new RG Standard with Edge Zero II now or today! Then you have to go for the RG Iron Label or RG Premium instead. On the bright, techs over there going to make a killing with bridge replacement. Anytime now? Oh yes, this advice is also for travelling Malaysian buyers in USA too. Better come back and buy it at home sir.

Below are a couple more global models that you should walk away from unless you love the guy so much or found it for sale dirt cheap then I'm happy for you sir. Just so you know I have nothing against the player. It’s just that bloody fucking bridge.



Thank you
yustech




5 December 2018

Thanks bro for telling my guitar tones is real/fake?



Acoustic pickup technology.
Ever wonder how an acoustic pickup work. I asked myself the same question too when I joined the retail industry years ago.

Let’s look at some acoustic pickups.

Type A - Piezo element (Under saddle placement).
A piezo element is placed under the saddle. This piezo is some sort crystal element. The two type that I know so far. A single line and 6 piece in line (wired in series). The entire tone capturing ability depends on the coupling contact between saddle and piezo. Added output is further help by the string tuning and string break angle on the saddle. This is important to transfer vibrations through the saddle to the piezo. It involves mechanical figuring out for the best results. 
The downside is, the piezo cares only for the strings tension vibrations, it cannot and does not captures the true resonance of the whole body. Its capturing perimeter is best only under the saddle and limited to the surrounding of the bridge. 
This creates a theory that several guitars with the same Piezo and Pre amp may produce  similar superb or bad amplified tones. Though the electrified tones are artificial almost real but still, the under saddle piezo remains to be the number one choice for manufacturers and consumers. It’s the loudest, safest and hassle free too. I'm blunt to say more emphasize is put into the preamp than the guitar acoustic's itself. Nevertheless, it is what it is. 

True acoustic capture verdict? 
Early piezo pioneers Ovation and Takamine.

Type B - Microphone (Internal placement)
The mic works by capturing air frequency waves generated in and around the guitar body. A good spot for mic placement is near the sound hole rim. In my opinion, good result depended on how much cubic air being moved. The guitar construction does matter here. In short, a guitar needs to be loud or the mic need to highly sensitive

Footnote: - I've seen some preamp unit that with an electret mic attached serving as primary or secondary support (mix with piezo).

True acoustic tone capture verdict?
Credits to electret mic inventor, Dr James E West.

Type C - Microphone (External placement)
The mic is place outside and possibly in front of the acoustic and most likely in a dedicated room. I think this method is able to capture 95% of the good or bad acoustic tone as how we should hear it. The 5% lost are from the guitarist stomach growl, his heartbeat and his brain waves. My theory supported by Along Exist (guitarist, composer and studio engineer) and Tam (Session musician).  According to both, external mic is still the best as its able capture every acoustic nuances. The downside of this system are it needs a proper room e.g. studio, good mics, good preamp etc. Since a good mic alone could cost a hand grenade if not an RPG, they only linger in the professionals’ realm if not serious hobbyists. 

True acoustic tone capture verdict?

Type D - Transducer element (Stick-on placement)

This is similar to the piezo system except for the placement. I'm still in the dark whether this system is a family of Type A or if it’s a different system entirely. The Transducer is stick to the guitar top inside or outside. The location is around or at the bridge. Finding a sweet spot is much tougher as there can be more than one. It is not surprising to see some manufacturer stick-on more than one just for safe measure but still the best spot is likely at the bridge.


True acoustic tone capture verdict?
Credits to Inventor, Barcus Berry Company.

Type E - Electromagnetic coil (Near or in the fingerboard)
I think this system involve finding the sweet spot at the strings scale length itself where the optimum strings oscillation (or loudest and longest decay) is.  I seen one evidence in my past repair post (I hope I can find it). This primitive system said to had been extinct, so I thought. Taylor guitars brought back this system in 2002/03. It’s called the K3 series (I will write more about Taylor K3 in another entry). However despite the single coil having to deal with its own proprietary ratio (magnet + turns + wire gauge), it has to depend on three crucial factors, which are external. 
The placement, say at the 12th fret (never seen this done before) or anywhere close enough. The core iron content in the strings (to disturb the magnetic fields). By the way, do you remember the high E and B of the acoustic string was phosphor bronze prior 2003/04? Maybe phosphor bronze do not tickle the magnetic field as much as nickel steel? Lastly is the pickup height itself.

True acoustic tone capture verdict?
Credits to inventor George Beauchamp

Type F - Electromagnetic coil (Sound hole attachment).

This the most obvious thing to do post electric guitar era. The system works similar to Type E by converting the magnetic field disturbance into signal. The magnetic coil does not capture the actual acoustic resonance.


True acoustic tone capture verdict?
Credits to inventor Lloyd Loar                    

Type G - Modelling

Of course, how could we deny the existence of such devices? One does not need to buy an actual acoustic in order sound like one.

-
Although there are many variants of acoustic pickup out there, I believe their operation originates from one or more of the above. I’m not saying any system is better than the other. Be aware of the trade-off. Know what you’re buying because you have understood it not because it’s being told by someone else e.g. me.

So do I now know how acoustic pickup work already? Hmm. Thanks for visiting reading this entry.

Thank you
Yustech