11 December 2018

Park G10R

Here is a Park G10R Amplifier. The son that Marshall wants to forget. The Park brand was sanctioned by Marshall in 90s to be the more affordable version of its English sibling. Conceived in Korea and with that name. Took me a while to put the two and two together. Hehe.

There was nothing majorly wrong with this G10R (yes 10 with the 'R',that R stands for sepering REVERB). The master knob seemed loose deceiving the owner of its actual range. The split knurled pot shaft had contracted disabling its grip at knob. Instead of trying to forcefully open up the knurled spline and risk breaking it, I used 3 layers of name card shoved slowly between the spline. A plumber white can added in case it doesn't hold up. So far so good without it.
Oh ya, speaking plumbers tape and you know how I like to repeat myself often. I remember some years back, one renowned supreme leader local guitar engineer said the plumbers white tape is only for toilet use and not guitars. Since I use plumbers tape in guitars when I have to, I can't help but to think that he tried to take a swipe at me. Well now Mr Oil/Gas supreme leader guitar builder engineer, please do forgive me for I'm just using common sense where it's needed. Perhaps you should admonished the toremolo engineers at fender too as to why they’re still using stupid threaded toremolo which was inherited from Leo Fender whom himself was an engineer in his own right. So yeah, swipe reciprocated. Next time, don't be fucking opening your mouth before understanding my reason. 
The external and internal looks good despite being 22 years old. The serial and transformer date code concurs this. There's a bit of surface rust on the speaker basket but still it's negligible.
There's nothing much to do to this G10R than what's said with the usual cleaning and soldering at some suspicious spots on the board. All the components looks pretty stock. I don't think anyone has been in here prior.
There's a pair of holes at the chassis covered by the rear panel. I'm guessing with the schematic, any supreme leader engineer could add a send/return here?
The front controls are all knobs style. No short cut to gain button here. The Pre clean,Pre gain followed by Master Volume must be dial manually. This is how you'll learn it in the 90s.

On top of the amp proven reliability, I would say the sound is not bad at all. I would say this is better than any of today's toy pocket size amp. Why do people get drawn to that I don't know, I like to put forth here that speaker cabinet/enclosure do make a difference. If space is really a concern then you should be getting the Vox Amplug etc, but then again who am I who's not an engineer to critic the sounds from those little 2 inch amps. They might sound great?

Thank you
yustech




3 comments:

subversion.sg said...

Used to own a Park 30-watter...

YusTech said...

I never thought it goes up to 30. Good to know. Was the loudspeaker a 12 inch sir?

LeeWot said...

Hi
It’s a very useful article.
have the G10 version and can see on the circuit board where the various components are fitted to convert it to a G10R.

However I’ve not been able to find a circuit diagram online for it to establish the components required

If possible could you advise me of what the reverb pot value/ type is and also components in the area that are not populated on my amp

It’s the area in the lower portion of your circuit board image - all components to the right of capacitor C15

Thanks