There was nothing majorly wrong with this G10R (yes 10
with the 'R',that R stands for sepering REVERB). The master knob seemed
loose deceiving the owner of its actual range. The split knurled pot shaft had contracted
disabling its grip at knob. Instead of trying to forcefully open up the knurled
spline and risk breaking it, I used 3 layers of name card shoved slowly between
the spline. A plumber white can added in case it doesn't hold up. So far so
good without it.
Oh ya, speaking plumbers tape and you know how I like to
repeat myself often. I remember some years back, one renowned supreme leader local guitar engineer said the plumbers white tape is only for toilet use and not guitars. Since I
use plumbers tape in guitars when I have to, I can't help but to think that he
tried to take a swipe at me. Well now Mr Oil/Gas supreme leader guitar builder engineer,
please do forgive me for I'm just using common sense where it's needed.
Perhaps you should admonished the toremolo engineers at fender too as to why they’re
still using stupid threaded toremolo which was inherited from Leo Fender whom himself
was an engineer in his own right. So yeah, swipe reciprocated. Next time, don't be fucking opening your mouth before understanding my reason.
The external and internal looks good despite being 22
years old. The serial and transformer date code concurs this. There's a bit of
surface rust on the speaker basket but still it's negligible.
There's nothing much to do to this G10R than what's
said with the usual cleaning and soldering at some suspicious spots on the board. All the
components looks pretty stock. I don't think anyone has been in here prior.
There's a pair of holes at the chassis covered by the
rear panel. I'm guessing with the schematic, any supreme leader engineer could add a
send/return here?
The front controls are all knobs style. No short cut to
gain button here. The Pre clean,Pre gain followed by Master Volume must be dial
manually. This is how you'll learn it in the 90s.
On top of the amp proven reliability, I would say the
sound is not bad at all. I would say this is better than any of today's toy
pocket size amp. Why do people get drawn to that I don't know, I like to put
forth here that speaker cabinet/enclosure do make a difference. If space is
really a concern then you should be getting the Vox Amplug etc, but then again who
am I who's not an engineer to critic the sounds from those little 2 inch amps. They might sound
great?
Thank you
yustech
3 comments:
Used to own a Park 30-watter...
I never thought it goes up to 30. Good to know. Was the loudspeaker a 12 inch sir?
Hi
It’s a very useful article.
have the G10 version and can see on the circuit board where the various components are fitted to convert it to a G10R.
However I’ve not been able to find a circuit diagram online for it to establish the components required
If possible could you advise me of what the reverb pot value/ type is and also components in the area that are not populated on my amp
It’s the area in the lower portion of your circuit board image - all components to the right of capacitor C15
Thanks
Post a Comment